![]() ![]() ![]() Some "ripen", all are cleaned, run over gravity tables and sorted and some are cleaned again. Up here on the top half of the globe - some are harvested in Spring, some in Summer - but the vast majority are harvested in Fall. Those that come from the Southern Hemisphere are harvested at the opposite time of year as those up north - which is where most of ours come from. We've had more than one seed last a decade without any noticeable loss in vitality, but we turn our inventory over regularly. At least to some degree - our estimates are largely based on our preference for fresh seeds. Just the same, we prefer to use and sell fresh seeds, so we seldom have them longer than 1 year. For example we know Grains commonly hold their germination power longer than 2 years. I guess I should admit that the numbers are generally very conservative. ![]() Our estimates, once again, are based on our experience. Those seeds really should be frozen (ours are, if they aren't vacuum packed) if you are going to have them more than a couple months. Those seeds will go bad (they sour) if stored too long at warm temperatures. You'll see they have about 5 years - so you can assume that to be the case for Cauliflower too.Ĭertain seeds - Almond, Peanuts, Pumpkin, Sunflower and therefore Madison Market Mix - have high oil content. For example - Cauliflower is a Brassica - so take a look at our Brassicas. If an alfalfa stand is more than one year old, don’t attempt to reseed for at least one year.If you are looking for a seed and don't find it on our list - consider what it is and draw your own conclusion. You can reseed immediately into a failed spring seeding (or from the previous fall). If you are reseeding into a previous alfalfa stand, you need a waiting period to make sure all toxin is degraded out of the root zone. Use the higher seeding rate when soils are on the dry side.ĩ. Alfalfa plants produce a toxin that can reduce root development and survival of new seedlings. Summer seedlings can be susceptible to loss under dry conditions. Seedling diseases are not as important in the late summer seeding as for spring seeding, but major diseases and winterhardiness are still key factors for persistence.Ĩ. Plant alfalfa at 15-18 lbs. Plant winterhardy, disease resistant varieties.ħ. Choose varieties that are resistant to all major alfalfa diseases in your area. Press wheels behind a drill give the best stand establishment. Pack soils firmly to help control seeding depth. Once worked, soils will dry quicker in late summer. For light or sandy soils, seeds should be place at 1⁄2 to 3⁄4 inch deep. New seedlings may emerge, but can die within a matter of days from heat and droughty soils.Ħ. Ideal planting depth for alfalfa in clay or loam soils is 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 inch. Avoid planting alfalfa seed into extremely dry soil with little chance of rain in the near-term forecast. If a companion crop is needed for erosion, control plant oats at one-half bushel per acre.ĥ. At this time of year, any competition will risk seeding failure. Companion crops compete for sunlight and moisture. Maintaining P levels is critical to proper root and seedling development, while K increases yields and stand persistenceĤ. The optimum pH level is 6.8, and liming should occur 6 to 24 months prior to planting. Before summer planting, have your soil tested, and follow lime and fertilizer recommendations for phosphorus (P), potassium (K), and sulfur (S). Use of a glyphosate tolerant alfalfa variety gives you additional options for weed control after establishment.ģ. Use a burndown herbicide like glyphosate to control perennial weeds or volunteer small grains prior to planting. ![]()
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